The bombshell announcement that the Downtown Dallas flagship store of Neiman Marcus would close shocked and angered many. Even the Dallas City Council tried to run interference. Based on the shifting series of reasons cited for the decision, Saks Fifth Avenue—Neiman’s parent company—clearly underestimated Dallas’ deep affection for the flagship store and all things “Mr. Stanley” Marcus. Even those who don’t subscribe to haute couture were hot about losing The Zodiac.
Those popovers and strawberry butter.
Helen Corbitt’s chicken salad.
And Heavens to Betsy, the mandarin orange souffles!
From the moment the news broke, social media was as crowded as NM Last Call—with stories about first Zodiac lunches, last ones, those with grandma, birthday, holiday, engagement, and post-divorce celebration lunches. And while, yes, our beloved popovers, chicken salad and mandarin orange souffles are available at all Neiman’s restaurants, that’s not the point. You have to be suffering with us to understand the importance of the pilgrimage.
“More than any other single menu item,
it is the popover that made our restaurants famous.”
- Kevin Garvin, former executive chef of Neiman Marcus
While a $100-million investment in updates to Neiman Marcus NorthPark, a few miles north of the flagship store, has been announced, we fashion faithful ladies (and men) who lunch are waiting to see what the ghosts of Stanley Marcus and Helen Corbitt have in store.
If you’re not fortunate enough to have a Neiman Marcus nearby, you can still enjoy our favorite luncheon nosh. Chef Kevin Garvin, who spent almost 30 years as executive chef for Neiman Marcus, penned three cookbooks featuring many of the restaurant’s best-loved savories, sweets and cocktails. The books are available at Neiman Marcus stores and from Amazon.
Below, I’ve included Chef Garvin’s recipes for a few of my favorites. Enjoy!
Neiman Marcus Chicken Salad
Stanley Marcus, known internationally for his ability to spot incredible talent, persuaded Helen Corbitt to run the Dallas flagship store’s Zodiac restaurant in 1955. She was hailed as the best cook in Texas and soon established Neiman Marcus as an innovative and transformative force on the American culinary scene. Mr. Stanley called her “my wild Irish genius” and “the Balenciaga of the kitchen.” It’s said that Helen Corbitt was to American food what Julia Child was for French. She authored five bestselling cookbooks.
Corbitt’s chicken salad remains a staple of a Zodiac lunch. Through the years, some have slightly altered the original recipe to include grapes and toasted almonds, as I have. Serve the salad as shown or with freshly sliced tomatoes and cucumbers. It also makes delicious chicken salad sandwiches. For sandwiches, I omit the grapes.
Ingredients
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast
1 cup diced celery
1 Tbsp. cider vinegar
1 cup mayonnaise
1/3 cup heavy cream
1 cup halved purple or red grapes
1 Tbsp. fresh parsley, finely minced
½ cup toasted almonds, plus extra for garnish
1 tsp. kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Directions
Rinse the chicken breasts under cold running water and place them in a small saucepan filled with enough water to cover them by 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil, turn down to simmer, and poach the breasts for 20 minutes.
When the cooking is finished, pour off the cooking liquid, and, holding with tongs, rinse the breasts under cold running water until they’re cool to the touch. Place the breasts on a serving plate, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 2 hours or until cold.
Remove the plastic wrap and dice the chicken into ½-inch cubes. Transfer to a mixing bowl and add remaining ingredients—folding the grapes in last.
Mix and cover with plastic wrap. Chill for about 2 hours before serving.
Mandarin Orange Souffles
These Mandarin Orange Souffles are a creamy, smooth citrus delight. For more than 70 years, this tangy treat has been the number one dish sold in all Neiman Marcus restaurants nationwide. The original recipe calls for fluted molds. However, if you don't have one, a traditional one works fine.
Ingredients
1¼ cups fresh orange juice
1 Tbsp. (1 envelope) unflavored gelatin
1 cup sugar
2 large egg yolks
1½ Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 cup heavy cream
½ can mandarin orange sections, drained (4-ounch can)
Directions
Pour one-fourth cup of the orange juice into a small bowl, sprinkle with the gelatin, and stir to dissolve. Set aside to soften the gelatin. Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl.
Pour the remaining orange juice into a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan and stir in the sugar and egg yolks. Cook over medium heat, stirring continuously, until the mixture begins to steam and is slightly thickened; do not allow it to boil.
Add the softened gelatin mixture (which will have a rubbery texture) and the lemon juice. Stir until incorporated, then transfer to a clean mixing bowl. Set the bowl in the ice bath to cool. Stir the custard occasionally while it is cooling.
Using a wire whisk or an electric mixer, whip the heavy cream in a mixing bowl until soft peaks form. With a spatula, gently fold some of the whipped cream into the cooled custard mixture to loosen it. Then add the rest of the cream mixture and fold it until fully incorporated.
Place three or four mandarin orange sections in the bottom of six individual 5-ounce fluted flexible plastic molds. Fill the molds with the orange souffle mixture. Place the molds on a cookie sheet and cover with plastic wrap.
Transfer to the refrigerator and chill for at least four hours, or preferably overnight, until firm.
Neiman Marcus Popovers
Kevin Garvin, the former executive chef of Neiman Marcus, said, “More than any other single menu item, it is the popover that made our restaurants famous.”
When making popovers, always use quality all-purpose flour. The milk must be at the proper temperature, and the eggs should always be at room temperature. For this recipe, Neiman’s uses a nonstick popover pan with twelve 3-ounce compartments. Although the pan is nonstick, still spray it with cooking oil. Resist the temptation to open the oven for a peek!
Ingredients
3½ cups milk
4 cups all-purpose flour
1½ tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. baking powder
6 large eggs, at room temperature
Directions
To prepare the popovers, place the milk in a bowl and microwave on high for 2 minutes, until it reaches 120 degrees F or until warm to the touch.
Sift the flour, salt, and baking powder together into a large mixing bowl.
Crack the eggs into the work bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk and beat on medium speed for about 3 minutes, until foamy and pale in color.
Turn down the mixer to low and add the warm milk. Gradually add the flour mixture and beat on medium speed for about 2 minutes.
Pour the batter through a wire-mesh strainer into a container. Cover and let it sit at room temperature for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. Spray a well-seasoned popover pan with nonstick spray. Place the empty popover pan on a cookie sheet and place it in the preheated oven for 10 minutes.
Remove the pan from the oven and fill the cups almost to the top with the batter. Transfer to the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Then, turn the oven down to 375 degrees F., rotate the pan, and bake for an additional 30 to 35 minutes, or until the popovers are deep golden brown on the outside and airy on the inside.
Carefully turn out the popovers onto a rack and serve hot, with the strawberry butter alongside.
Neiman Marcus Strawberry Butter
Since my first lunch at The Zodiac, I’ve never been able to eat popovers without strawberry butter. The pairing was genius. Strawberry butter is also delicious on English muffins or toast. Remember, when slathering your popover with this spectacular strawberry butter, it is just that—butter.
Ingredients
1½ cups butter, at room temperature
1 cup good quality strawberry preserves
Directions
Place the butter in the work bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on high speed for 4 to 5 minutes, until light and fluffy.
Add preserves and beat until well combined.
To serve, use a pastry bag or small spatula to form a small mound of butter in a serving dish. Alternatively, place the softened butter in shallow ice cube trays and freeze until it hardens. When you’re ready to serve, dip the trays in warm water and turn out the butter. I chill my strawberry butter in the refrigerator until firm and shape it with a melon ball cutter.
Neiman Marcus Poppy Seed Dressing
This is one of Helen Corbitt’s recipes and a Neiman Marcus staple for the past 70 years or so. It is a standout salad dressing and makes a great dip for all kinds of fruit.
Ingredients
1 cup sugar
¼ cup white vinegar
2 tsp. dried mustard powder
2 tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp grated onion (plus the juice released from grating)
2 cups canola oil
3 Tbsp. poppy seeds
Directions
Place the sugar, vinegar, mustard, and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer. Add the grated onion and onion juice and mix on low speed.
Turn the mixer to high speed and gradually add the oil in a slow, steady stream until well incorporated. Continue to mix on high speed for 10 minutes longer until the dressing is very thick. Stir in the poppy seeds.
Transfer to an airtight container and keep refrigerated for up to three weeks.
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